why are independent brands charging so much for polyester clothing?

from a small brand owner perspective

scrolling through tiktok recently, i came across a video from american-based creator arden rose. in this video, she showcased a try-on haul featuring items from "peachy den," a london-based brand that seemed to have taken 2024 by storm among the "cool girl" crowd. having followed peachy den’s journey since their debut with the iconic “kernel” jumpsuit, i felt a sense of pride seeing a high-profile u.s. creator organically promoting them. naturally, i was curious about how an overseas audience received this brand.

peachy den

the comment section was divisive. some people applauded the brand’s designs, while others criticised the high price point, suggesting the creator was “clearly” in a different tax bracket. a recurring critique, however, stood out: many were frustrated with the idea of paying premium prices for clothing made of polyester.

arden rose’ comment section

this sentiment isn’t new. we’ve spent decades under the influence of fast fashion, where affordability and quantity often trump quality. for many, the idea of spending a significant amount on a single polyester garment feels counterintuitive when fast fashion brands like asos or zara offer so much more for less.

however, there’s a growing demand for transparency and quality in fashion, particularly for garments made from natural fibers. consumers increasingly want to justify the cost of their purchases through material quality and responsible production. yet, as a generation accustomed to fast fashion’s convenience and low prices, are we actually willing (or ready) to pay what it costs to deliver that?

as a small brand owner, i understand the complexities of balancing high-quality materials, ethical production, and financial viability. these priorities are non-negotiable for us, but they also come with significant challenges (especially being in a close-to-body category). our commitment to these principles is one reason we operate as a slow brand, releasing new products thoughtfully and deliberately.

while our brand doesn’t use polyester, we empathise with the hurdles faced by emerging labels trying to carve out a space in the market. the reality is that polyester—whether recycled or not—is often the only way small brands can stay competitive in the "mid-market" and maintain affordability. transitioning to natural materials such as wool, silk, or organic cotton can push a brand into the luxury category, alienating a larger audience and increasing the risk of financial instability. unfortunately, many luxury brands last year have been forced to shut down due to these pressures.

it’s also worth noting that not all polyester is created equal. when it comes to quality, there’s a distinction between the "cheap" polyester used by fast fashion giants like shein and the “better” polyester utilised by smaller, independent brands like peachy den. from a quality perspective, these two are worlds apart, yet the term “polyester” tends to lump them together, creating a stigma around its use*.

whats the difference?

fiber quality: high-quality polyester uses finer, more uniform fibers that can mimic natural materials like silk or cotton. cheaper polyester often uses lower-grade fibers.

weave construction: premium polyester typically features a denser, tighter weave, resulting in a smoother, softer finish. cheaper versions have a loose weave, making them more prone to wear and feel rough.

finishing processes: expensive polyester undergoes additional treatments like brushing, coating, or dyeing, improving texture and appearance. cheaper fabrics skip these steps to cut costs.

for small brands, using the best materials available within a limited budget is essential. many work with low minimum order quantities (moqs) to reduce overproduction and waste, but this often comes with steep surcharges from suppliers and higher costs per unit. ethical production adds another layer of expense, as paying fair wages and maintaining responsible manufacturing practices are priorities. all these factors significantly impact margins—the lifeblood of any brand.

while it’s easy to criticise small brands for their pricing, it’s crucial to understand the broader context. supporting small, independent brands often means investing in their future vision, ethics, and quality—most of which can’t start as “big” as those that are pumped with capital from the start but still seem to have better ethics than fast-fashion giants nonetheless. the conversation needs to shift from “why is this so expensive?” to “what am i supporting with this purchase?”.

ultimately, if we want to move away from the irresponsible practices of fast fashion, we must be willing to embrace the costs of more ethical, small-scale production. it’s not just about the fabric; it’s about the story, the unique designs, and the values behind each piece. in doing so, we can undo our unhealthy behaviours around over consumption that fast fashion has instilled in us.

but the likelihood is that “plastic” will continue to be listed among the materials on many products—simply due to what’s available, the costs of working with alternatives, the prices consumers are willing to pay, and the realities of how we wash and wear our clothing.

unfortunately, much of the innovation of affordable natural fibers are not yet mainstream however, i know that many young brands, including ours, are closely following these developments. this is where the fashion industry should be heading (and luckily, feels like it is), and it needs to become a financially viable option for all—not just for the luxury market.

*note: this perspective focuses solely on the quality of polyester as a material, rather than its environmental implications. it is important to acknowledge that polyester, regardless of its quality, carries environmental concerns.

bry

xxx